LINCOLN SA-200 BASIC CONTINENTAL ENGINE WELDER STARTER  INFO 

                The image is the basic engine starter circuit. This image is for a negative grounded electrical system; the negative battery cable (normally black) connected to the welder frame.

                The system gets it‘s ground through the engine frame. The negative battery cable should be connected to a bolt on the governor and then a second ground strap to the frame. Because the engine is mounted on rubber pads this second ground strap is necessary.

                The large (4 gage) red battery cable is attached to the large center terminal on the starter solenoid. Note this is a common point to get 12 volts for accessories.

                Terminal “S” on the starter solenoid is the solenoid’s engage terminal-you put 12volt (+) on the terminal and the solenoid engaged. If there no 12 volts on the large terminal the solenoid will engage, but the starter will not spin. The starter needs a source of DV voltage to spin. The solenoid gets its ground through its case (same as the starter motor).

                The push button starter switch must be spring loaded (you have to keep it pushed in for the starter to spin). There is no polarity (it doesn’t matter which wire is attached to what screw) for the starter switch. One wire must be connected to a source of 12 volts that is available all the time-the large terminal with the battery cable ithe best. This wire will go to the starter switch on the control panel, of the machine, normally close to the choke cable. A second wire from the starter switch will run back to the starter solenoid and connected to the “S” terminal on the starter solenoid.

                If you push the starter button and nothing happens, the quickest test is to check for voltage on terminal “S”. Push on the starter button with the test light on the “S” terminal. If it glows (HOT) time to look at the starter solenoid.

                No voltage check, with the test light, the push button-one terminal should be “HOT-12 volts”; the other terminal should be “hot” when the button is pushed. If it is and there is no 12 volts on the “S” terminal-you have an open wire-time to replace it!

Note: 62% of all starter failures are due to faulty or weak batteries. Normal battery life is 3 to 4 years. We recommend that you buy the largest “amp-hour” battery that will fit y our machine. Batteries loose acid during the charge/discharge cycle, even “sealed batteries” die because of this cycle. Buy a battery that has removable caps. If you look down the cell holes you will see a circle and if the fluid is low the vertical plates maybe seen. Fill the cells with distilled water-not tap, filtered-distilled! Keep a gallon around-it can be bought at most grocery stores.

19% of all starter failures are causes by poor electrical connections or defective cables, wires, or ground cable connections. Rule of thumb, the voltage drop (difference in the voltage from one point to another) should not be more than ½ volt. Any wire or cable on your machine should never so hot that you cannot touch it with you bare hand.

After battery installation the  voltage should be 13.8 to 14.8 volts, while running. Weak or defective batteries kill alternators and regulators. Put you voltmeter on the battery terminals; this is what you will see

a) 12.6 volts battery is fully charged (you need to check the starter)

b) 12.4 the battery is 75% Charged, after running the welder the alternator should bring it up in 20 to 30 minutes.

c) 12.2 the battery is at 50% charge.

d) 12.0 the batter is at 25% charge.

e) 11.8 the battery is at 0%, you will have to have a “jumper battery” to use the electric starter.

f) 10 volts indicated a bad cell-time for a new battery.

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